Monday, July 15, 2019

Alaska: summer 2015

Who names a town Deadhorse?
Three weeks in Alaska, starting at Deadhorse and ending in Anchorage.

It was 32 degrees in Deadhorse, in mid July, at noon. The gas pumps are kept in enclosures, presumably so they wont freeze. The ground is covered in these weird patterns caused by the freezing. I put my bike together in the airport, then went to the general store to buy some bear spray. I went to one of the two hotels to buy lunch, then headed out since there wasn't much to do and I want'd to get out of polar bear territory.

The second day I woke up at about 6am to the sound of something moving outside my tent. My worst fears coming true, I grabbed the can of bear spray I slept next to. I grabbed the knife I slept next to. I waited. I watched as a silhouette of a rabbit slowly made its way across the side of my tent. I went back to sleep.

I saw 4 other cyclists on the road, and about 100 motorcyclists.

Markers to show you where the road is during winter
Most of the ride was uneventful, with nothing but a bit of scenery. I was north of the treeline for the first 4 days.


For the most part the highway was easier than I expected, with only the last two days being annoying. Something must have bent my derailleur because even after forcing my chain into the lowest gear on the crankset the chain still rubbed against it. I couldn't move it any further since the fender was in the way, so with my 9 lowest gears unusable I spent a lot of time pushing my bike. Also I forgot to bring my leg clip so I tore yet another pair of pants.

Arctic circle
taking a bit of the road with me
The Alyeska pipeline is visible from most of the road, sometimes crossing it. It's covered in heatsinks when above ground and heavily insulated or actively cooled when buried to avoid melting the permafrost.


One thing I hadn't read about beforehand was just how much standing water there is on the ground. Even though the amount of rain that falls isn't that high, the permafrost prevents the rain from sinking so there is water everywhere.



After Fairbanks, on the parks highway it's about 300 miles of pine trees with occasional spots to view Denali.


Once in Anchorage I booked the standard glacier tour through Prince William sound, which was fun.


On the way back I finally saw a moose.


Also I finally had a reason to use the telephoto lens I bought.




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