Friday, February 8, 2013

Big Update!
Left Glasgow on Monday and today is Friday. I was without internet in the interim.
Day 1 I took the train to Glasgow to Gourock to get a jump start on cycling to the isles. However when I arrived they weren't running the ferry to Dunoon due to bad weather. Facing that, I jumped back on the train and decided to head north along Loch Lomond from the train station in Bishopton. Crossing the Erksine bridge, the pedestrian section was also closed due to bad weather (Come on Scotland, closing half your country due to a bit of wind? I thought you were better than that.), but I jumped the barrier because I certainly wasn't going to get back on the train to Glasgow. The rest of the day was riding along Loch Lomond and up towards the highlands into a strong wind, rain, and snow. News was on during at the pub I stopped for dinner at and they said wind was gusting up to 70 mph on the islands I had been trying to get to. Finally found a place to camp alongside the road just north of Crainlarich after dark and I had about an inch of snow on my bike in the morning.

Next day, the weather was no better. 30+ mph wind directly in my face. Rain, Snow, everything grey. At one point after struggling up a long hill, a guy in a stopped car mentioned that it was all downhill from there. It was, but with the wind in my face I was going no faster. Lowest gear possible, face down, soaked from head to toe (at least the waterproofing on all my gear was holding up) going down a 5% grade slower than I went up it. Overall a fairly miserable day, with little chance for pictures. Finally made it down into Glen Coe to camp by nightfall. Didn't make it to Fort William like I planned, but mostly due to the headwind.
Where I spent the night:

Next Day I had a short ride to Fort William, which sits in the shadow of the highest mountain in the UK, Ben Nevis. On the way into town I passed about 100 bed and breakfasts.
In Fort William lies Ben Nevis Distillery, where I picked up a fine bottle of 10 year old single malt scotch whisky for way too much money. For about a quarter mile around the distillery there is a sweet, peaty smell that cannot be mistaken. Since I was a day late, I missed the couchsurfing host I had setup, so I stayed in a backpackers hostel.

Next day I started out along the great glen way towards Inverness, where for the first time in Scotland I didn't have the wind in my face, so I made great time. Much of the great glen way was just 4x4 dirt road and not too impressive. It certainly wasn't designed with cycling in mind, and I imagine it would be fairly boring to walk through. More of an average glen way to be honest.
Shortly after Fort Augustus, the great glen way turns to junk, and they had the main bit blocked off with a terribly hastily done detour. I took one look at the new path and decided I wouldn't possibly make it on a bike, so I found a place to camp beside the road before turning around in the morning.

After that I spent most of the way along the A82 and Loch Ness, spent an hour in Urquhart castle (pronounced Urkart) which is apparently one of the oldest castles in the highlands.
Loch Ness is really one of the more boring lakes I've been beside. If it wasn't for its historic significance as a trade route and the stupid monster myth I doubt it would have much mention at all.
After the castle I went straight to Inverness where I'm currently staying.

1 comment:

  1. Sounds like a rough bike ride! Love the castle pick - the semi-ruined ones are my favorite.

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